Sunday, August 12, 2012

it’s getting chile in here

ever since i burst forth rather unglamorously into adolescence with big sally jessy oversized glasses and a fringe growing out in a manner reminiscent of tintin (google it.  not pretty), i have had a longstanding love-affair with the chile pepper.  the fact that chile loved me back even with said styling is, frankly, a testament to the depth and force of the love we shared.  this was no passing fancy, no summer fling.  there were no empty pledges of daily missives brimming with angst and hormones and pimples.  no, this love was for keepsies; the everlasting, george clooney of food crushes.  other ingredients might pop in and out with their strong shoulders, flashy smiles and soulful gazes, but my heart shall always belong to the chile pepper. 

my current obsession is tinkering around with homemade salsas.  which also plays into my OTHER current obsession, which is condiments.  i am a ho for a hot sauce; condimented, if you will.  no matter what you’re cooking, or how terribly wrong it might go, a good sauce can make (or save) the dish.  it's like wearing your fanciest knickers underneath your sweatpants: it might not be the main focus of your ensemble, but somehow it just makes you feel a little better about your day.  


rick bayless (sweet man, strangely flesh-coloured beard) knows a thing or nineteen about mexican cooking.  i’m presently working my way through “mexican everyday” and he has yet to steer me wrong.  the recipes are original, thought-provoking, and the faff-factor is minimal (which is always good news for the zero-training home cook such as myself). 

two of my favourites thus far have been the avocado salsa and the smoky chipotle salsa with pan-roasted tomatillos.  both utilise the bizarre fruit that is the tomatillo, a frequent feature of latin american cuisine.  now, the tomatillo might look like an unripe tomato in search of a coat check, but in fact it’s actually related to the gooseberry.  (random, slightly boring, and completely useless fact of the day.  you’re welcome.)  the former salsa is fresh and tart, subtle but with a kick from the jalapeno.  oh, and it takes about 3 minutes tops from start to finish.  rick suggests pairing it with chorizo tacos, but i’ve had it with chicken, fish, pork, and scrambled eggs.  it’s pretty much the little black dress of salsas.  the chipotle one is somewhat more complex in flavour.  the char from the dry pan-roasting adds to the inherent smokiness of the chipotles, leading to a full-bodied, punch you in the face kind of salsa.  but, you know, in a good way.  it goes beautifully with steak fajitas, a fat bottle of red, and a deck on a summer evening.  now if somebody needs me, i’ll be off in the corner with my red-hot lovah.  CP + JE 4EVA.


smoky chipotle salsa with pan-roasted tomatillos (adapted from “mexican everyday” by rick bayless)
4 medium tomatillos, husked, rinsed and cut in half (about 8 oz.)
3 cloves garlic, peeled (i used 4.  what can I say, i heart garlic)
2 chipotles in adobo (more if you want more heat) (i used some chipotles from my freezer that i had previously pureed.  probably equivalent to about 3.  yummmm…)

set a large nonstick skillet over medium high heat. lay in the tomatillos (cut side down) and the garlic.
when the tomatillos are well browned, about 4 minutes, flip everything over and brown on the other side. the tomatillos should be completely soft.
scoop the tomatillos and garlic into a food processor and add the chipotles, about 1/4 cup water, and salt to taste (about 1/2 tsp.).
process everything together into a course puree.  


avocado salsa (adapted from “mexico: one plate at a time” by rick bayless)


2-3 medium tomatillos (about 4 oz.), husked, rinsed and cut into quarters
1 garlic clove, peeled (or two, if you’re feeling feisty)
2 serranos or 1 jalapeno, roughly chopped (i always go jalapeno and leave in the seeds & membranes ‘cause I’m cray cray like that)
1 large ripe avocado

combine the tomatillos, garlic and chiles in the food processor.  pulse until everything is finely chopped.
peel and pit the avocado, add the flesh to the processor, and pulse until everything is well blended.
taste and season with salt, about 1/2 teaspoon. 

use every fibre of your being to stop yourself from drinking salsas through a straw.  cheers.

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